Ultimate Guide to Floors, Doors, Trim, and Paint Post Drywall - The Real Rebuild Episode 6
Ultimate Guide to Floors, Doors, Trim, and Paint Post Drywall – The Real Rebuild Episode 6

Ultimate Guide to Floors, Doors, Trim, and Paint Post Drywall – The Real Rebuild Episode 6

Ultimate Guide to Floors, Doors, Trim, and Paint Post Drywall – Reveal Secrets Now!

Foreword by Ian Thompson, Editor

In this episode, Matt Risinger takes you on a tour of the interior finishing process of his home – specifically, the hardwood flooring installation, interior trim, and painting. He starts with a unique approach to installing hardwood floors right after drywall, providing a step-by-step guide to the process. He also highlights the use of an innovative insulation detail, the “raft slab,” which offers a warm and comfortable flooring experience.

Next, Matt delves into the specifics of the trim stage. We discuss the selection of high-quality paints, the importance of thorough preparation, and the benefit of using top-tier caulking for a durable finish. In addition, we explore the use of epoxy flooring in the garage, explaining the necessary prep work and the benefits of this type of flooring.

Matt also showcases a hidden staircase feature leading to a well-insulated attic offering ample storage space, a game-changer for any homeowner. Lastly, we discuss the importance of using high-quality materials and labor to achieve the best results in your home construction or renovation project.

So, in episode 6 of the real rebuild series Matt shares some useful tips and tricks that can help you make the best decisions for your home rebuild or new build project, ensuring that you achieve a high-quality, comfortable, and durable living space.

Video Transcript

All right, my friends, welcome back to another episode of The Build Show. This is the real rebuild. We’re looking back at my house today’s episode, episode 6. We’re going to be looking today at floors, at doors, at trim, and paint – basically everything that happens post-drywall.

Now, I’m a little bit different than some builders in that I like to install my hardwood floors right after drywall is done, so we’re going to be looking at that process. And then we’re going to jump right into interior trim. We’re also going to move from the studio today back over to my house and actually show you how some of those finishes are looking here 2 years later.

So, that being said, real rebuild episode 6, let’s get going. The real rebuild, a Build Original series, is brought to you by James Hardy. This episode, in particular, is sponsored by Huber. Let’s get going.

All right, guys, before we jump into the floor install, I want to take a bit of a rewind and show you what we did on an insulation detail. Now, we looked at this briefly on another episode, but my house has an original slab. You know, we reused the 1970 slab. And then on top of that slab, we used an inch and a half of Halo interfoam, followed by two layers of 3/4 advantex subfloor.

Now, that 3/4 advantex subfloor is what we call a raft slab – it’s basically floating on top of that insulation. And we glued and screwed that advante to each other. But it’s not fastened to the floor below. And I got to tell you, now that I’ve been in the house two years, it’s unbelievable. It’s got a little bit of cushion. No one has any idea that that’s not a concrete slab. And yet, my floors are warm because they’re insulated. I don’t have that slab pulling the heat out of my feet in the wintertime. And with just a little bit of cushion, my floors feel fantastic.

Now, I got to give a big kudos though to Huber. You know, this is a heavyweight, heavy-duty type detail with two layers of 3/4. That means I’ve got an inch and a half of subfloor underneath. And that also means that I could have gone with a real traditional nail down floor. I ended up doing a glue-down floor, but I could have easily done a standard nail down floor. And that Advantec has been rock solid.

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Now, you noticed if you noticed from the videos, I actually have the Yellow Version, which you may not be familiar with. It was a brand new product two years ago. It’s becoming more and more standard. You’re seeing it in more and more markets. But Huber calls it X Factor. It’s basically an advanced version of advantech that same advant Tech that we’ve come to know and love. I’ve been using it since 2006, I guess, was the first time I used advant Tech. But now it’s got this coating on the top, kind of a yellowish coating, which feels a little bit like the Zip system coating. It’s adding additional waterproofing benefit. But the big deal is it’s making the house really easy to clean and look nice. It also is really nice to be able to mark and make notes or whatever you need to on the floor because it doesn’t go away. In that standard advance tech, it really shows up on this floor. And of course, it made the perfect substrate for me to move on to the hardwood floor.

So, that being said, let’s jump into my hardwood floor install. We’re starting upstairs on the second floor of my house. We’re using a really cool product, but you know what? Hardwood floor is really important to get the prep right. Now, there’s two types of prep. You’re sometimes going for level, you’re sometimes going for flat. In my case, I’m not super worried about being level. This is new construction. If I’m a hair off of level, no big deal. But what I do want is a flat floor.

And so Christen Hardwood Floor, my local contractor that’s installing these Delta Millworks floors, which by the way are available nationwide, has done an amazing job of prep. So let’s start on my daughter’s bedroom and I’ll show you what they’ve done over here here.

So first off, I did not cover my advantech prior to sheetrock upstairs, which meant that I had a fair amount of prep that need to be done up here. Now they used a buffer with a very thick, heavy grit sanding pad. I think it was a 30 grit. Check this out, y’all. This is a 26 grit pad that the Kristen guys put in their buffer. Wilson and his boys, they did a quick go of my floor. I did not cover these floors ahead of time, so they buffed them all down with this 26 grit. Look how nice that looks. And that’s basically what you’re left with right here, which is you’re going to see that they got some of the top grain off, but there’s still a little bit of sheetrock dust down into the corners.

They also did a really good job of double checking. There weren’t any high nails because they found a couple places where my seams needed just a little bit of sanding. That’s not from swell, necessarily. Because you’re only going to notice like two or three spots like that. But we did use a hand planer, pardon me, an electric planer in a few spots to do that. And we ran a giant level on floor to make sure that it was as flat as possible.

Now, I did have a little bit of a depression in here, so we ran some floor leveler to fill that. And this is dried super fast. So same to install. I think that’s the only spot that we needed to. We’re walking down the hallway now to my boys’ bedroom. Boys’ bedroom, we did a little bit of prep as well. This room turned out great, so we didn’t have any problems here. So hardwoods are prepped. Let’s get into it. And we’ll pick up the video as we get started.

Wilson and his crew from Chris, they’re doing a great job over here. This is my first run of boards. Look how pretty those are. Love it. Wilson, so we’re using glue on this, and they’ve nailed this starter strip. This is the long haul way that goes down – basically a continuous board from the top of the stairs. They’ve run a shock line to run that glue so they don’t go too far and get it everywhere. And then watch Wilson beat this thing in place. He’s done this before. He’s got a nice clean rubber mount. I saw those guys cleaning off their mounts at the beginning of the day, make sure they’re nice and clean.

Here’s Emma running the next run right here. They’re staggering the seams, make sure those seams are nice and staggered. First room is done. This looks so nice. Now that we’re done, the first thing we’re going to do is cover this immediately. You can see some dust marks from our drywall coated feet, but we’re going to cover this thing up with some Ram Board.

And you’re noticing that we didn’t quite run it tight to the floor. There’s a little tight here in this direction, but in this width direction, we’ve run it with at least a half inch or so down the wall to leave some expansion and contraction room. That’s best practice, even though this is an incredibly stable floor. We want to make sure that we’ve got some room for expansion and contraction. So ready for some Ram Board? Look good.

All right, day two of my install. Wilson’s prepping the entire floor is almost done. And below, this is a concrete slab. And then if you saw my videos, I put an inch and a half of Halo insulation down, and then there’s two layers of 3/4 plywood. So this advantech, which you see running this way, has another layer of Advancetec running horizontally. And it’s glued and screwed to each other. You can see I’ve got screw marks here. And then I had Advancetec glue underneath that, so I’ve got a very, very flat floor.

Wilson’s running around a 30 grit sandpaper on here just to make sure that everything is nice and clean, basically so his glue has something to stick to – no dirt, no junk on there. And look how nicely it’s cleaning up. I mean, it’s beautiful. It’s leaving a little bit of a yellow film or yellow dust, I should say, that they’re cleaning up. But they laid the entire second floor of the house yesterday. I suspect they’ll lay the entire first floor today.

Let’s talk about Huber products for a minute on my house. You know, I used advantex subfloor both upstairs and downstairs on this house, I’ve been using Huber Advantech exclusively on my build since 2006. I had a plywood problem on my very first build as a custom builder in 2005 where I had some, uh, delamination and some seams that had gotten wet that I had to sand off. I switched to Advantech cuz I heard that it was going to withstand rain better and I wouldn’t have that sanding issue. I’ve never looked back. They’ve been an incredible, that’s been an incredible product.

Now, the Zip system, I got to tell you, when I first heard about this system when it came to the market, gosh, I don’t know how long it’s been ago now, 15 years ago or so, I thought, “I don’t know about this, a tape-based system.” I was concerned. I didn’t think that it would be a good system and I saw some testing that happened, uh, about 10 years ago now at the University of Texas construction durability lab which really changed my mind. They showed how incredibly durable, UV resistant, uh, and just how the Huber Zip system in general outlasted the competition, uh, in this durability test and I was sold.

And then fast forward a couple years, I started reading some articles that both Jake Bruton and Steve Bacia were writing, uh, in some trade publications and realized they were using Zip system to get some incredible results on houses, not just from a waterproofing perspective, but from an airtightness perspective and that’s really what turned the corner for me. I don’t know, five, six years ago, and for me to use the Zip system sheathing on the outside of this house, use all their products, their family of products including Liquid Flash, it’s made an incredibly tight house for my family and I which has led to a really comfortable house, a really resilient house, and a really healthy house.

You know, if I’m able to really tighten the envelope, the exterior on this house, that means that I don’t have pollution and allergens and pollen and all that other nasty stuff that’s often in the Texas Outdoors coming in to my house through gaps and seams and cracks. Also means that I’ve had a very bug free house. I’ve not used any professional bug service since I moved in and I’ve had zero problems. At this house, whereas across the street where I used to live, I had a quarterly spray going on all around the house and I always had issues, bugs were finding their way in. So this house, using really kind of off-the-shelf, uh, parts and pieces, a lot of Huber Zip system products, uh, I’ve found to be an incredible house for my family.

And I also, lastly, really like that if you’re new to the Zip system, or let’s say, uh, your first house is a zip system house, you’ve not done it before, you can really tell on the outside just from a glance whether the details have been done correctly. And oh by the way, if there’s a mistake or if there’s a problem, it’s very fixable. It’s really easy to tell what the problem is on the outside and make that change or correction. So with that being said, Huber’s been an incredible company to work with, their products are absolutely top-notch. I think game changers in the industry and I really recommend these guys.

All right, guys, let’s take a minute and talk about these woods now. This is a European Oak and what’s amazing about it is that gosh, I have yet to see a board with any bigger of a knot, uh, than that one right there. It’s all pre-finished which has been fantastic for my schedule, you know, the crew finished the entire second floor in one day. And if you look at the profile on the floor, check this out, very thick, uh, wear layer on the top which means I can sand this several times and then very, very tight, uh, plywood in the center, that’s a no uh footballs in that core, lots of Plies, nice and stable. And then if you flip this floor over which you can see at the top, uh, of these bags, it’s the same wood on the top, uh, or pardon me, on the bottom as the top which is going to lead to Ultimate stability on this floor, very, very impressive product.

They’re going to start at the front door and work their way back and we measured, uh, cuz we’re going side to side in the house. I thought that made the most sense to lay the boards, uh, we did a really good measure on the board cuz it’s not quite 10 in, it’s actually like a 16th, uh, or may somewhere between an eighth and a 16th shy of 10 in in width so we wanted to take that measurement from here to here so we’re going to start actually with just shy of a full board on this side so that we’ll have about the same on this side of the house. You got to really spend your time measuring and Wilson and his Crew have done an awesome job, extremely precise.

All right, we’re at the front door, the first bead of glue going down. Emma’s done this before, this is no other first rodeo. Here’s our, uh, my Ultrabond Eco 975 standard urethane adhesive for hardwood flooring. Interesting they tape these together, not quite sure why, I need to ask Wilson about that.

All right, we are looking good at my front door, check this out, front door is right there, we got about half the foyer done, Emma is spreading, Wilson’s nailing down, uh, not nailing down, he’s rubber mading down. I was thinking the other day when I, uh, sometimes when I think hardwood floors, some of us including me, sometimes when it comes the pre-finished, have this Bruce hardwood floors kind of, uh, mentality. I’m sure Bruce has gotten a lot better but when I installed them in the ’90s, it was a production Builder floor and those floors in particular, when you had a, a gap between the floors, there was a pretty good bevel and clients get upgrade to a micro bevel but it was not flat.

And what’s amazing about this floor is that it’s totally flat, uh, the other thing that production Builders love about pre-finished floors that custom guys typically, uh, shied away from was well two things. Number one, you couldn’t get the exact finish you want, and that’s not true with these. I was able to totally customize with Rachel Paxon and my entier designer to get this exact color, Sheen, everything and then they were boxed up and shipped here. But the again, these are totally flat so when they get rubber mounted in place, there’s no, there’s nothing to trip, there’s nothing you’re going to see on this floor to, uh, give it away that this is not a sight finish floor. And Chris Nick’s done a ton of sight finish floor for for me and I’ve loved them in the past, in fact I’ve been a bit of a snob on on sight finish floors cuz I I love them so much but in this case we’ve got a floor that totally kills the schedule. It’s awesome, I’m knocking this floor out, Wilson and his crew are knocking my entire house with the hardwoods 2,300 ft of hardwoods in 2 days done, no need to come back and stand and finish. So now I can come in with my Benchmark, uh, Crystal cabinets and install them here in the foyer. I can put all my base mold down later and not have any additional shoe moldings or other, uh, frilly pieces that I need to kind of cover that Gap up. Again, you’re going to notice that Wilson’s maintaining some gap between the wall and the, uh, and the floors to allow for a little bit of expansion although I think that this floor as stable as it is, it’s not going to see any expansion or contraction.

All right, as we’ve got a long portion of the house coming up, they’ve run to the here and the house is about a 1⁄4 in out of square so so they ran a string line from this side all the way to the other, tweak these two boards and we’re going to move just the hair from here over that way. When we get out to this wall and land at this door, we’ll have a nice straight board. Wilson and the guys from Chris T floors are just finishing up, these guys are tired. Woo, look how good that floor looks. We’ve already covered the entry, we’re going to cover the rest of the floor with some Ram Board, but man, it is looking really good. Um, I think you guys caught what I’m doing next on trim, but just to verify, uh, I’ve got this shiplap going down. That’s going to end right at the floor there. They just have a little bit more to finish, and then my cabinets are coming next week. All my baseboards will come after that, so amazing job by Chris nik and beautiful product by Delta works.

Okay, y’all, one of my absolute favorite features in the house, and I knew it was probably going to be one of my favorites, has been this right here. So if you saw any of the videos from the trim side, we did a bunch of wood ceilings. I’ve loved them, but one of the things that allowed me to do was hide the staircase right back here. So this is my magic stair. Now, uh, I knew I was going to love it and the coolness factor is definitely there. Check this out, just kind of drops down from the from the middle of nowhere. So I love the hidden and the cool Factor, but to be honest, it’s the actual function that has been phenomenal, 100% reliable, have no had zero issues with this thing since it’s been installed. Uh, by the way, all their pricing is transparent. You can go to their website and see how much these things cost. Uh, and really any smart finish Carpenter can install one of these. It’s just that easy.

And now I’ve got a real staircase with a true handrail and a 45° angle. Follow me up, let me show you this. On the last video, we talked about my rock wool installation and making a conditioned attic space has been a total Game Changer for me. You know, we’re in a slab on grade situation here in Texas where we’ve got rock 6 in below the surface, so digging a basement would be all but impossible. I’d literally have to Ho Ram or Blast for multiple weeks to get a basement in here. As a result, going up, putting all of your duct work in the HVAC space, the air conditioned space in creating this air conditioned attic has been amazing.

I’ve got storage for everything. You know, I’ve got a bunch of kids, so having all our luggage lined up and ready to go, just walk right up the stairs, super cool. On the magic stair front though, one thing you need to remember is when we press the up button on these stairs, in fact let’s do it cuz I’ve got a upstairs rout, let’s see put them up.

When these stairs come up, you’re going to see that they’re going to park right into this space right here. Looks like we got some Christmas decorations in the floor, but so you have to outline the space and say hey, don’t put anything in there. If if you were to put a piece of luggage here, it would hang up the stairs and you’d have to uh, spend a little time and effort to get them unhung up. You know, this is just a a pretty basic opener system. It’s not intended to to force things, but with the stairs up you can see how much space they take up, not bad at all, just this Center section. So I just took some tape and taped it off and they provide some signs for you.

But check out the storage space, we’re in the air conditioned heated space of the house. The rock wol is all exposed. I use these just because uh, my inspector wanted me to make sure that I was uh using enough support, so I probably could take those down I having any problems. But you know, if you go to a traditional attic uh insulated with let’s say blown fiberglass, I go up there and I immediately wish that I would have had a dust mask on when I went up because I am coughing for hours on end after that. This attic on the other hand, no issues whatsoever. This is all exposed rock wool. I have had zero problems and if I understand it right, the reason is these fibers are very heavy and if I were to pound on this and get something to to fluff off, it wouldn’t stay a loft and Airborne, it would fall pretty quickly to the ground because these fibers are heavy. Remember, this is made from rocks originally, so as a result, I’ve had zero dust up in the attic. I’ve had no problems, uh, and as you can see, I’ve got lots lots and lots of storage space and good access to Mechanicals.

But back to the point in these stairs, I had to basically Design This House with this attic space in mind, and at one point, I actually did a cross-section, uh, with Steve basic and said hey, do I have enough Headroom in that attic? I want to be up here in this attic space and have plenty of space uh here to be able to get about. Now I knew I was going to be pinched as we got into the shoulders, but I wanted to get around the main space and have room for Mechanicals Plus Storage.

And having two Gables was a really big deal. This window right here provides lots of natural light, which is awesome. I could easily turn these lights off and we’d still be able to see up here. The other thing these Gables provide is spots for vents. I’ve got my fresh air on my north side of the house for my Zender fresh air system. I’ve got my exhaust, uh, going on the south south side, which is arguably the quite a bit hotter side of the house. And by having a Gable to push those through, I don’t have to worry about a roof penetration for any of that. So I’m a big fan of having gable walls up in the attic, and this pitch on this roof is a I think this is an 812 8 and 12 pitch, so now I’ve got a fairly steep roof but lots of good attic space.

Alright gang, so the floors are down, down we had a chance to go up in the attic and check out my awesome magic stairs, but let’s transition to the trim stage now. This is normally done trim first, then floors much later, but at my house I really wanted to drop everything, my floors, my door, my base, uh, down without shoe molding. So that’s why we put the hardwoods down and then this was a pre-finished hardwood, so I covered everything complete.

Now when we jump into this trim stage, we’re going to watch the video full interior trim install. We’re going to jump around a little bit, though, cuz really wanted to look at design choices in install. But these guys who uh did the Finish Carpenter at my house, some of my favorite people in the world, so let’s go take a look.

And then you’ll notice that all my doors, I think I talked about this in a previous video, all my doors are molded doors. These are from gelwin. Let’s see if I can uh pop these off and I I was able to specify when I ordered these the exact panel system that I wanted. This is a router carve door out of solid MDF. How nice that looks, so this has a chamfer edge here and I made these two panel doors and I was able to specify how wide the Styles and rails were going to be, and my interior designer helped me with that. But I really like how this turned out, it’s everything kind of fits together nicely.

And I had this style of molding in a 1930s Sears and robu house that I lived in in Portland a few years ago. This is called Greek Revival, and my friend Brent Hall, who’s a kind of a historical craft man Builder, developed this line of moldings for winds or on. So most everything you’re seeing in the in the house molding wise is of that Greek Revival package.

Now we did start, though, with the ceiling. You want to do those ceilings first, especially when you have a crown molding uh coming up to it. And this Crown Winning is also from that Windsor one Greek Revival uh collection. But we did the ceiling first, we also made sure we got all the cutouts correct for the ceiling, you you don’t want to miss any of those during that that uh initial carpentry phase.

And then we trim the windows, and this window trim is pretty straightforward. This Jam piece is, uh, is just a one by material. This actually could have been popular. I can’t remember, Windsor one makes some Jam material as well, and then this casing that goes around that has a bead on it is part of that Greek Revival collection.

And what you’re seeing here is a backband is what they call this. And the nice thing about a back band is it makes this 3/4 trim actually, uh, an inch thick. So if you’ve got trim, or I should say doors that are going to the floor, now you don’t have a flush joint. I try not to do flush joints wherever possible. When you have a flush joint, it’s really hard to Bondo that and make it perfect. So I’d much rather have a reveal there, put a beat of Big Stretch, and then call it good. And that’s pretty much what we’ve done on all my doors uh in the house. In fact, you can see that if we back up right here, here’s that casing coming down, here’s that back band coming down, and then this is that Greek Revival base molding as well that I put in there.

I mentioned this wood ceiling in my master. We have that same ceiling here in the foyer, the kitchen, and the dining room. This is hemlock from Delta Mill works, and we installed this from the front wall back. And again, because we uh, we have some long boards and we didn’t always have things to nail too, we used a lot of that fast grab product. Oh actually, I have tub right here. I believe this is leftover. Yeah, here we go, power grab was I calling it the wrong thing? That’s the one we use right there. And while we’re talking about trim before we get into that space real quick, let me show you what we did here.

Um, these are my only I, I should make a video on this. I think you actually comment below if you’re interested in seeing a video on this. I’ve got some different style uh doors going on in the house, but these are folds that will have Linens here and then an upstairs laundry room on the other side. So I’ve got a stacking uh MAA uh washer and dryer in here. The other thing you’re going to notice here, there’s no vent out for this space because my stacking unit is ventless, super excited about that. And then right here we’ve got a barn door that my guys made that will slide across and open up this space, which is kind of a hangout room, uh, a place for a friend to sleep over and have a pull out couch here, some desks they could use as study. So the boys actually have a bit of a suite. But here’s what I did, this house could be a four bedroom, it’s actually currently a three-bedroom house. So that in the future I could wall off where this barn door is, and right here where this closet is, I actually have right behind this door another door blank that I ordered when I ordered all my gel windows, and that door is sunk into the wall cavity so that I could wall this off. I could open up that door, it would swing into the closet right here, and then these doors would go away, and then I’d still have a closet, and then this would be its own separate bedroom, and this would be back to a four bedroom house.

All right guys, you can see now the house is really coming together inside. We’ve got some great trim work and details. I’ve got pocket doors going in, but let’s actually step out to the garage now and check out the epoxy floor. I got another YouTuber buddy of mine, Eric, to teach me how to do epoxy, uh, and we didn’t get a ton of footage on it, but you’ll notice that I used pre-finished plywood on the entire interior of my garage as well as a um uh Hemlock ceiling in there. So I was really looking for a sheetrock free garage, and I think I’ve achieved it. This is a really cool looking space. Let’s go check out that footage now.

The wood that you’re seeing here, this is a specialty product. I got it from Delta Mill works. It’s a uh Hemlock vertical grain Hemlock. It comes in a tongue and groove 1×6, which is basically what you got right here. So the guys are actually able to nail through the tongues, and that way when it’s all put together, no visible Fasteners on the whole ceiling. I was really excited about that. You’re also going to notice that my walls are going to be this right here. This is a uh pre-finished Maple ply would, and then my base on the garage is a PVC base. That’s a versch 5/4 by 8 basemold that’s that’s laid first. So that if I’m power washing, if I’m scrubbing or the cars are wet, I’m not worried about the bottom of the plywood getting wet. It’s just going to be that PVC that’s going to get wet. I’m excited about that look in the garage, and you’ll also notice just like the ceiling, I had my finish Carpenter put uh this front wall plywood in before we hung the door. So this track is now through the plywood, the wire hide is through the plywood, and again that’s just some 3/4 Maple plywood. I just did that as a finished wall so that now I can attach things to my wall, and it’s also allowing me then to keep this garage fully insulated, um because, and that’s a big reason why I wanted this insulated door. I’ve got a minisplit head in the corner there where those wires are sticking out of the wall right there where that free online is. I’ll have a Mitsubishi mini split head on the wall there, and in the summertime I’ll set it to probably 80 degrees so my garage will never be hotter than 80. In the winter I’ll probably set it to 60 degrees so it’ll never get very cold in the garage. My garage Frid freezer will operate really well because they won’t be in the extreme heat that you often have in garages, and I can use this space as a workshop or do whatever I need to out here. It’s going to end up being a little bit of my man cave. That’s why it’ll be really nice out here.

So I think you’re a better candidate for either epoxy or polyurethane or some coating to have the color in the coating itself, not in the concrete. That way so the coating is going to be on top, then, and you wouldn’t see all the nastiness underneath, correct? Now we’re still going to prep it, don’t get me wrong. We’re going to have to grind it. uh, typically if you’re doing stain you don’t want to grind because you need that cream on the surface, you know? You just need to profile it a little bit, just enough to get the sealer to stick, okay? But you want the cream on the surface cuz that’s what’s going to stain all right. Here we’re not worried about it. We’re going to grind it. Grinding is going to be the easiest fastest best way to get the profile that we need for that coating to stick. You want that coating to stick, okay?

So preparation is key as you can imagine. And speaking of prep, before you got here today, you gave me some directions. Talk to me through, talk me through what Andrew and I did yesterday in terms of uh General prep, right? So obviously being 50 years old, you’re going to have oil stains, you’re going to have stuff that just has falling on the concrete over 50 years, and so you guys use uh some daily clean just get get you a a good cleaner that can uh, you know, you want to get as much off of that concrete as possible. You’re not going to get it all, but you want to get as much off as possible. You want to get a floor machine with a uh with a brush, a stiff bristle brush. That’s what you want, uh, often times you can use a pad but I’m not even better, I’m not a big fan of the pad cu the pad just kind of floats on the surface and you want to profile the concrete. And whenever you profile it uh, and then you use that chemical, you want to get it out. So if you use just a pad or a brush, you want to vacuum the water, okay, afterwards, okay. Uh, again here is not as critical cuz we’re going to grind it. Right now you were just getting kind of the stuff off the surface, which you did a good job, I mean thank you uh, there’s but even then there’s still a lot of stuff behind you know? There’s a lot of paint, there’s uh yeah, we’re seeing some garbage on the surface that didn’t come out, and we’ got some of this kind of stuff happening too, right? Right, and we’re going to fix all that and that’s the beauty of doing a coating. Right, if we were just simply staining the concrete, you could not really do anything to that because if you patch it, that patch is going to stain differently than the old 50-year-old concrete, right?

Whereas a coating is going to float over top of all that. It’s the color is in the coating itself, and if you patch this, my assumption is you’re going to patch first and then you’ll grind to kind of feather that patch so you won’t be able to see it. That’s why we that’s why I wanted you to clean it up. Now that it’s clean, I can go straight to patching, okay? Okay. Okay.

After we get it patched up, we let it cure for few days maybe about a week or so, make sure that that concrete or that patch uh we’re actually going to be using a micro topping a hand uh you want that to be well and cured so that when we grind it, it grinds nice and flat with the rest of the concrete.

Grinding the floors, we need to profile the floors so that the uh epoxy can stick really, really good, okay? Typically on new construction, as I said before we we can simply do an acid wash, but because this what is this 50 years old? Yeah, yeah, it’s from the 70s, right? And I did some patch work, then grinding was the best solution. And talk to me about that grinder, that’s a a more industrial grinder. What’s the grit of pad? What are they using to actually grind?

So that is a 30 grit, you can actually get down to about a 14 grit, is that right? And but but yeah, so the thing is, I had no idea what kind of concrete they used here. ‘Poss’ you know, they could have used like a 2500, yeah who knows you never know, right? So uh, I didn’t want to bring the 14 grit cuzz I was afraid it would do too much damage, whereas the 30, if it doesn’t do enough, well they just do multiple passes, right? And then you’ll get there.

And now that we’re done, you can kind of see what you’ve got here, it has a little bit of a swirl pattern in in some of the harder spots, right? In the softer spots, you got more sanding done, is that right? Yeah, so it profiled the slab really well and now that’s going to provide a really good surface for the epoxy to stick to, yeah. It’s kind of toothing in, right? Correct, you know, you have all those Hills and Valleys, that’s just more surface area, makes sense.

What’s the next after this now? Well, now we’re going to finish cleaning it up really well, as you know today we did not use water because the epoxy you cannot have moisture. We’re trying to get it done today, so what we did is uh we just used did it all dry we vacuumed all the dust and now we’re going to clean it out real well. We’re probably going to take a leaf blower, have to wear a mask – this this stuff is bad stuff – so blow it all out and then after that, then we can start putting down the epoxy and the chips all right? I’ll meet you back back when we get the epoxy started all right.

The excitement begins. Leroy got our part A Part B of the crown polymers all mixed. Talk us through what you got going on, Eric. All right, so we got the epoxy mixed and now we’re going to put it down, think about epoxy, it is 100% solid so you don’t want to dip and roll, you want to pour it right onto the concrete and you want to use a notched squeegee, a notched squeegee, interesting, to spread it around. It’s only got about a uh, these are 16 notches on this thing and uh, this is going to allow us to spread it evenly on the concrete and then we’re just simply going to come back with a roller and roll right over, okay?

If you dip and roll, again, because it is 100% solid, it’s not going to spread really well and you may actually get roller marks especially if it’s a very hot day, so you want to use the notched squeegee and this is literally all you do. Don’t be scared, I’m a little scared. All right, you do that one little, one little puddle to start with, yep, and then he’s going to kind of work it into all the places, isn’t see that? And that 1/8 inch or 1/16th notch, it’s not a lot of notch, but it’s allowing some material to flow through and get a kind of a uh consistent cover, consistent cat, there you go. It doesn’t have to be 100% perfect.

Uh, like I said, the uh the roller’s going do the rest, but probably good time for us to mention that Eric wanted to do this work prior to sheetrock, um, which makes sense cuz now we’re not super worried about taping walls being perfectly careful about edges. And that also means that I’ve got a little bit of forgiveness built into the system because once the sheetrock goes on the walls and I put base down, uh, I’ve got about you know an inch, inch and an eighth or inch and a quarter let’s say from that zip sheathing or from our studs to the finished wall. So that that edge where he’s epoxying out here doesn’t need to be perfectly up against something which ultimately is going to save us a fair amount of time in the end, right Eric? Correct, so you want to work smart, obviously.

Well, little epoxy goes a long ways, yeah, like I said, that’s that’s the beauty about the the squeegee as well, you can get very even coverage. This looks awesome. Now Leroy, we going to start crush rolling? Crush rolling, cross cross rolling, cross rolling, sorry, misheard you. Okay, now what’s the uh what’s the type of roller pad he’s using? Using a 3/8 roller, okay, a 3/8 roller, uh obviously you want a non-shed nap you don’t want it to shed, yeah. If it sheds, it’s going to be there, yeah, you want it to be a uh solvent based or solvent resistant roller, so it has to be a quality roller, bottom line. Oh, and this gray epoxy that we’re using here, Eric, could be a final coat if we wanted to, right? Correct, correct, but we are going to use this in order to uh get our chips to stick, so we’re going to put it down then we’re going to come back and throw chips on here. And with those chips, do we also need sand in there for slip resistance or will the chips do that for us?

The chips is going to give you a surface, it’s not going to be very slippery, plus this is interior. Um, I don’t like, I don’t like using uh sand if we don’t have to, cuz it makes it really hard to clean, yep, but uh no, the the chips will give you plenty surface. One thing I’ve got a question for you while you’re doing this, you’ve got a just a small crack in that slab right there, will that epoxy cover that? It will, uh, it will to some degree, but the chips are going to really do, do really bring it home. Got it, so when you’re doing this, it’s not perfectly level, Leroy is really doing the more yeah. Yeah, final level, this is just so you can spread it, yeah. The main thing is the main reason for the squeegee is so that you don’t leave it too thick, yep, makes sense.

What’s our pot life? It’s not much, uh, today is a beautiful day so it’s low humidity, low humidity, not super hot, about 75° so our pot life right now is probably about 30 minutes, okay, but you still, you want to maintain a wet edge at all times, yeah, you got to keep moving. That is uh, you have to not only do you have to keep moving, you have to to keep mixing, and you can’t mix more than one kit at a time, so you have to time it properly. And one kit is a gallon and probably a quart of Part B, something like that half the mixture is two to one, okay, two to one, it’s one, so it’s a half gallon of Part B and a gallon of part A, correct. From this particular Crown Polymers, that may be slightly different depending on the manufacturer you end up using, and you do want a two-part. I also want to mention that this is not a nepoxy we’re buying at the Home Center the hardware store. This is from a uh Pros store that would sell to individuals. If you’re was rolling. Sorry Mard, you okay now? What’s the type of roller pad he’s using we 

Are using a 38 roller? Okay. U 38 roller, uh, obviously you want a non-shed nap. You don’t want it to shed, yeah. If it sheds, your, it’s going to be there. Yeah, you want it to be a uh solvent based or solvent resistant roller, so it has to be a quality roller bottom line.

Oh, and this gray epoxy that we’re using here Eric, could be a final coat if we wanted to, right? Correct, correct. But we are going to use this in order to uh get our chips to stick. So we’re going to put it down, then we’re going to come back and throw chips on here. And with those chips, do we also need sand in there for slip resistance, or will the chips do that for us? The chips is going to give you a surface. It’s not going to be very slippery. Plus this is interior, um, I don’t like, I don’t like using uh sand if we don’t have to cuz it makes it really hard to clean. Yep, but uh no, the the chips will give you plenty surface.

One thing I’ve got a question for you, while you’re doing this. You’ve got a just a small crack in that slab right there. Will that epoxy cover that? It will, uh, it will to some degree but the chips are going to really do, do really bring it home. All about the chips. We need to know, Eric? Nope, just that’s it. That’s it, it’s like man glitter there you go.

Wow, that’s cool. So this is all you do, throw them out? Now obviously you can decide how much you want to do. I mean, you could say, you know what, that looks good, just leave it alone. And that’s the, that’s the reason for using the uh the colored epoxy, that you can, you don’t have to do 100% if you don’t want to. You can literally just leave it like that if you like it.

I do kind of like that. Okay, I don’t, I don’t know that it needs to be all, right, 100% full. We can do that. I’m looking for a camo epoxy so that it kind of camouflages all the dirt and all the junk. Okay, so I mean you can see that’s fairly easy. That is pretty easy, look at that.

All right guys, before we end the video, let’s spend a little bit of time talking about paint. Uh, you’re going to notice that I used Benjamin Moore. AA, this is a more expensive paint, but I found that especially in paint, you get what you pay for. There’s certainly some other good choices on the market, but I’ve had really good choice. I’ve had really good success, I should say, uh, with Ben Moore.

Now, I also, you got to make sure that you’re using the best accessories and the best labor when it comes to paint. So Gio, my painter, absolutely nailed the details. You’re going to notice he used a lot of Big Stretch uh on my house. That’s a product from Sashco that I’ve used for almost 20 years now and found that to be the absolute best in the industry. And that really fits the bill for you get what you pay for as well, much more expensive than just basic cocking that you can find for painters but absolutely worth it when you’re building houses the last. This is the right product.

Let’s jump in and show you a couple details from the paint. This is critical to a really good paint job. So let’s talk about the materials that we’re going to use to prep with. When you look at this wall right here, you’re seeing a lot of prep work meaning this kind of pinkish stuff. We’ll get that in a second, but I do want to mention that anytime you’re doing finished carpentry, there’s always going to be somewhat of a gap between that carp and the paint. And that’s when you need a product like this. You need a painter’s cocking.

Now quick plug for these guys, not all painters is created equal. And about 15 years ago when I started my custom home business, an old painter got me turned on to this that at the time uh was hard to find. You couldn’t find it at the big box stores. You only found it at a local hardware store. And I went and got what he asked me for for the paint job and I came back to him and said “Gosh that was really expensive.” This was like, you know, $6 a tube let’s say, when previously when I was working for a production Builder, we were using $1.50 a tube coock. And he said “You know what son, you get what you pay for and this is one that’s really worked for me.”

Fast forward now 15 years later, I understand the science of why these are so much different in cost. Even though this and another product U might say the same things, but they’re vastly different on both cost and performance. So for instance, Big Stretch by Sashco, one of the big differences is the cheap cocking that you see on there and this one. There’s basically just a few components on there. And I’m boiling this down but basically there’s water in there, it’s latex based water-based, there’s going to be um some latex material that’s kind of similar to Elmer’s Glue basically, and then there’s going to be, believe it or not, some other products in there as well, things like clay. And when you buy the cheap tubes, it’s more than half the tube is Clay, just regular Old Clay from the earth, and a little bit of latex and a lot of water.

On the other hand, when you buy this tube, we’ve got a lot more of that expensive ingredient, and that’s why this cost so much. I’ve been using this for gosh 15 years now and had really good success with that and using a product like this means that when the house moves and changes and shrinks, this is going to shrink and move and change with it rather than showing the crack which I spend a lot of time on callbacks on at that one-year warranty period when I worked for that production Builder. So in the end, spending a few dollars more per tube, huge difference and it’s going to save you on the back end on warranty.

Now one thing I do want to mention though, is you don’t want to use a micro-bead of this. You want enough of a bead laid down that this product can do its job and move with you and actually stretch. If you’re using just a tiny micro amount of this on a joint, you’re going to have a hard time giving that product the ability to stretch if there’s a tiny amount. So we want to use a proper amount of this and apply it properly.

All right, so on the prep side of things, one of the things that’s critical is for your painter to take the time to deal with all those little imperfections before any paint goes down. Now typically Builders talk about using Bondo, but there’s actually kind of three products that we use and have used a lot over the years. First off wood filler, almost all the nail holes uh from a Pneumatic gun, all those tiny little pin holes, those are all wood filler and wood filler is great for that because it doesn’t shrink and crack.

Now, if you have bigger imperfections like if you’re, if you’re filling a screw hole or if you got a chip or a crack, here’s one you can see we’re working in process right now uh on this barn door that we made uh for the my kids bedrooms upstairs. We’re going to use Bondo. Now Bondo is a little harder to use only in that it’s a two-part product meaning I need a part A and I’ve got to put a hardener in there and then we’re going to sand it down but it works really well uh for bigger things.

Now for smaller things, here’s a secret that Gio gave me that I don’t think a lot of painters know about and that’s another product from Bondo called glazing and spot putty. And almost all these smaller cracks that you’re seeing and this these minor imperfections that Gio’s filled, he’s used this. Now this is a single component Single part, little more viscous, a little more fluid than Bondo and that’s going to help get it in these minor things. So see that scratch right there uh that was on the wood, he was able to fill that and then he’s sanding and doing a real nice job of sanding and prep. You can see I’ve got some of that uh kind of pink uh dust on my hands. That’s from sanding on this that we’re going to of course get off before we paint.

Okay, so finishing up on prep as we talked about earlier, use those good products and really spend the time to prep the wall and look at the wall. Wall, you’re going to see a good painter use a cordless light a lot and in fact, I have a couple extras that he’s been borrowing on my job because we really want to take a look at that wall and what they call critical light which is that raking light. 

And so when you see the painter walking around with a uh light like this and really looking at the wall you know that that prep job is going to be good and in a room like this, seeing all the pink like this makes me really happy. 

All right guys now things are really getting interesting. You’re starting to see the finishes come together on my house here but we’re almost done. The next episode we’re going to get into the real finishes and then we’re going to kind of do a wrap-up recap on episode 8. So stay tuned guys.

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