continuous insulation

Insulate Smarter: InSoFast’s Revolutionary Waterproof Continuous Insulation Panels

Foreword by Ian Thompson, Editor

Join us as we dive into the incredibly efficient continuous insulation system by InSoFast. Created by inventor Ed Scher, this novel and easy-to-install waterproofing solution is extraordinarily sustainable.

See how Ed’s background as a builder sparked the initial inspiration for InSoFast’s unique adhesive and mechanically interlocking dovetail design. Unpack the benefits of its integrated drainage panels that keep excess moisture at bay.

Gain insights into the strong yet cost-effective insulation solutions InSoFast delivers for new construction and remodeling projects. Learn about the pivotal role of capillary brakes in ensuring top performance.

Discover how InSoFast panels facilitate easy air sealing using spray foam – eliminating the need for multi-step conventional insulation while unlocking significant savings.

Whether you’re battling leaks, cracks, or just looking to build better, InSoFast continuous insulation is an excellent insulation choice. Now, over to Matt and Ed.

Insulate Smarter: InSoFast’s Revolutionary Waterproof Continuous Insulation Panels [Discover Energy-Saving Insights]

Video Transcript

On the build show today, one of my favorite topics: continuous insulation. That’s right, we’re going to be reviewing some products from a company that, honestly, they’ve been around a long time and I just found out about this. This is some really cool stuff.

It actually reminds me a lot of kind of half-faced ICF. We’re going to meet the founder of the company, who’s also a former Builder, and we’re going to be talking about some really cool products. Today’s build show is sponsored by Insofast. Let’s get going.

Hey guys, let me introduce you to Ed Sher, the founder and inventor of this product and this company called Insofast. Now Ed, before we jump into your product, you actually have a builder background, right?

I do, starting in the late 70s, so we’ve seen a lot since on and you were framing houses in the 70s, is that right?

That’s correct.

And this product kind of started with your knowledge of framing and you’re building your very first house in the 70s, is that right?

That’s correct and tell me about that first house. Well, it was a little 28×32 split entry home with concrete block foundation and okay. And uh, actually had it work for a contractor that was wanting me to, gave me free range to do things and he said, “Go do it.”

Very cool. We went from there and so that first house that you built in the 70s, that’s this was the tough time in America, this is the oil crisis, right? Energy prices were through the roof. What were you doing for energy efficiency on that wood-framed house with a concrete block foundation?

Well, we were, we just switched to 2×6 framing at that time and that sparked my interest in energy efficient building and what we could do better. And that’s kind of what we always looked at is what are we doing now and how can we do things quicker, faster and better, uh, and save some cost along the way.

And you were in the cold snowy north, right, Minnesota? So the switch from a 2×4 wall to a 2×6 wall in theory gets you that much more cavity insulation but even as a young Builder you realized, “Hey, I need something else besides these tubes to stop that cold from radiating through my walls,” right?

Correct. And that’s why we started looking at technologies that was coming from Canada the time and we found that the exterior insulation was the was the key to energy efficiency. We’re not just getting a portion of what we’re putting in the wall.

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Yeah, so we we tried that. We put couple inches of insulation on the exterior and learned from there, uh, we ended up learning that the foam board shunk and everywhere that was taped and sealed was wide open, especially the areas over the studs and the framing that were we were wanting the most insulation on were were bare when we tore into it.

Interesting. 10 years later, because that foam had shrunk on you, I watched an old video with you too, Ed. You’ve been on YouTube a long time by the way, we got YouTube OG with us on the build show today. I watched a video that was at least 10 plus years old where you had some XPS foam that was buried in the ground and I was shocked to see that foam had actually absorbed water when I think of that. I think of foam in general as non-water absorbing.

That’s correct and with that, I was shocked too cuz that was in pure sand, real sandy soil. I thought, “Well, maybe it was in clay,” that would happen, but that was actually my own home when we went to remodel it, is that right before we before we sold it?

Okay, so that soaked XPS maybe uh got you thinking, “Hey, maybe there’s a better way.” And then we’re fast forwarding a decade or so here but in the 90s you were an ICF contractor for a decade or so, right?

Right, right, right. And that we thought was going to be the most efficient, strongest, most resilient and we never got the mainstream contractors on board with it to buy in on it, right? And they still, they still haven’t. I mean, we used to advertise it would be 2 to 6% more to build ICF than regular but it was really 26 to 30% more, yeah, to do it that way.

But at the same time, had a pretty uh interesting um start with products like this and so the very first Insofast product, which is not too dissimilar to what I have in my hands here, talk to me about how you came up within it and what separates it from other options out there in the marketplace.

Yeah, so we we chose to go after the low hanging fruit first and being in the ICF business and knowing what the what the issues are with basements, we loved the foam in there, we love the the plastic studs to attach to, there’s nothing that’s going to rot, rust or decay.

Y’but one of the things we found out is you could have a leak up over here and it would come in down over here. So then we went to super good waterproofing to uh fix that issue. But so our very first product, we actually have a drain plane back on it so when you put it up against the concrete wall, when that concrete wall cracks or leaks, it’s designed it’s all shingle styled flash to keep your drywall dry.

And that’s a uh a version of your very first product that you came up with, right? Maybe this is version 337.76 but it’s still basically the same product, right?

It is. This had the the stud that was flush with the surface M and uh the same uh special adhesive adhesive dovetailed background that actually and it has the same in mechanical interlock or it has the same mechanical interlocking dovetails.

Yeah, so the adhesive flows in there and and sets up and mechanically locks it to the wall. Now I watched an old video, this is at least a 10-year-old video uh of you and another guy which by the way, when I saw the video I thought, “Wow, when Ed comes to the office I’m going to look like a shorty because you look really tall in this video,” that was probably a 7 foot 6 basement, right there?

But you and your partner are it looks to be just only using glue, only PL premium, and adhering these right onto the center block, that’s correct?

The the bead of construction adhesive, a little 3-in bead is equal to a concrete screw, holy cow, uh 6 in on center.

Yeah, so we found out very early it also has some other benefits. It floats over irregularities up to 3/8 of an inch, so it flattens, flattens your wall. That’s pretty nice. And it uses moisture to cure, which is ideal, so it’s not going to another, other words, “eat the foam” either if you had some of that incidentally go on the foam.

Okay, Ed, so this is your original 2-in stud that you’re using on this panel but you also have come up with some thicker versions and this is your 3 and 1/2 in stud and if you look close at that dove-tail, you can see these angles are pitched, you actually have a patent on that, don’t you?

Correct, that’s pretty cool. And on the squeeze out on that PL premium you just have this glued to a uh looks like a concrete p, I mean that is absolutely not going anywhere. That is super strong, isn’t it?

It is, it is. And it’s nice, doesn’t po, poke holes in the foundation either.

Yeah, that’s right, that’s right. You’re not making any potential in ingress for water in the future, that’s pretty cool. And then ultimately on your 2in panel, that stud is showing so when you look at basement images uh you know photos, you actually see those black studs on a 16 inch on center, yes you do. That’s pretty cool.

Another video of yours that I watched to getting pre for this video, that’s an old YouTube video of yours, uh was one where you talked about the uh supplies that you need to do a framed basement. It was actually this video right here, “Ed talks about Ino fast,” this is from 11 years ago. I love it, Ed, you and I both have been on YouTube for at least, I started in 2008 so I’ve been on as long as you have.

But in this video Ed, I loved how you’re like, “You know what, you when you frame a basement out you got to go to the Home Center, you got to buy all this lumber, you got to buy bad insulation, you got to buy all this stuff and then not only that but when you’re in the basement, you got to work around ducks that are in the way, you got Plumbing in the wall, whatever, it’s a pain.” And then you go on to show how quickly you’re putting these Insofast panels in a basement. It’s pretty impressive.

It really is and one of the neat things about it is a is a first-time user or laborer is going to get the same professional results as a journeyman carpenter too, so that’s pretty cool.

Okay, so why EPS in your mind? What is it about EPS foam that makes it different or better than some of the other foam options out there?

Well, it’s one of the safest foams. It doesn’t use any CFCs or HCFCs. In fact, we use steam to to expand the foam. It’s all closed cell foam and it works like a Gortex or Tyvek, so it will allow uh drying when it gets wet or if it gets wet, which is typical for something you want for building materials in the basement.

Yeah, and uh, and this coffee cup of mine that I got this morning at the old 7-Eleven, I think this is a great example of the power of EPS foam. I mean, this is what an inch thick or so. I’ve got almost boiling uh water in there, my coffee is 190°, is where I like it, yeah.

And yet my hand is 98.6, so I’ve got at least a 90° Delta between this steaming cup of coffee and yet an inch of foam makes it perfectly comfortable to hold. And also, if I were to leave this coffee cup on my table for a day or two, none of that coffee is going to absorb into the foam and that’s really the same with your panels too, that’s right.

And one of the things about a basement is you have that cold concrete walls, that’s like the ice cold drink that you pull out of the cooler.

Yeah, that’s right. So it eliminates that condensation as soon as you slide the foam Koozie over the top or the EPS over the top like that, 15 times thicker than your cup.

Yeah, that’s pretty smart. Now I also noticed that you got speaking of uh you know drainage or a leak uh or condensation, you have some drainage panels kind of built into the back side of this. So this is your dovetail that’s actually going to get glued to the concrete to the foundation but these drainage panels are intended for if some incidental water made it through, to drain and dry that down to the bottom, right?

That’s exactly why they’re there and we also have electrical raceways built into it so once you get all the panels up, then you cut out where your box locations are and then you can just shove the wires through from box to box or or both vertical and horizontal so you can shove it up into the rim joist area as well.

So in this case you’ve totally eliminated that 2 by wood basement framing in favor of a product that you showed us how you could do an entire wall in what was that, a 20 minute uh time lapse, you and your partner putting an entire wall on even with obstructions?

Yeah, that’s and the more issues you get into that are difficult to deal with with framing are really simple to deal with with this product with the panels. That’s pretty impressive. I mean, this is a builder who definitely had some thought in the process and understands it.

Uh and the last thing that I want to mention on that is, coming back to the example of all the stuff you have to get from the Home Center to bring down to your basement with your panels, they’re actually shipped direct to the job site in a cardboard box, they’re fairly lightweight and so all the materials are delivered to your house by the UPS man, right?

Right, I mean, as as quick as you can get the boxes or slide the boxes down the stairs and uh adhesive gun, you’re ready to ready to go start framing. That’s pretty awesome.

Now what else is interesting about this, Ed, though, is uh as we were getting prepped for this uh video, I was saying, “You know, did you bring samples of your wall material, your floor material, your exterior material?”

And you said to me, “No man, it’s actually the same thing. Think about this, if this is on a wall right here and then we flip this to a floor, we’ve got the exact same properties.” There’s no need to switch the foam or the formulation, the only thing you might want to change is, let’s say your R value and change your thickness. So talk to me about how you might use this in a floor situation.

So the floor, it’s really simple, you want to get your walls done first, then just order extra for your floors, yep. And you’ll just lay the panels on the floor, interlock them together and do what we call the floating method. And you’re going to lock it together with your subfloor that you put on top of it so you’re going to stagger The Joint a little bit so your subfloor locks everything into place.

Got it. This, what we’ve found from the customers that done it, is it’s really eliminated the need for radiant floor heating. It’s really made it a huge comfort issue, uh get comments on how kids lay on the floor watching TV where it was ice cold before. So that makes a lot of sense.

And in this image here it looks to me like that guy’s only using maybe half inch OSB even on top of that, is that right?

It is, it’s actually back, you’re back completely solid on there with the high strength compressive strength of the EPS foam, uh you’re over 200 pounds per square foot, wow, uh which is much more than residential codes require. So and then is he going to screw that uh plywood or OSB in this case down to the stud on the Insofast panel?

Yes, just screwed directly to the studs.

Speaking of screws, we haven’t talked about it yet but you guys sent me this display which I absolutely love, uh any Builder nerd is going to love this. This is one of your 2in studs and you got put screws, roofing nails, trim nails, siding Nails, drywall screws, not only that, you put them like right next to each other and I don’t see any splits.

And I thought when I first saw this, “Oh I’m sure I can pull that 16 penny nail out of there.” That’s not getting pulled out anytime soon. Talk to me about that.

Yeah, we’ve really worked hard to with different formulations and kind of come up with a proprietary formulation that that works good for nails. So when the nail gun goes in there, it actually heats up and bonds to the to the fastener itself, so this material is actually heated up when the friction of that steel nail or screw goes through and and helps give it additional pull-out power.

That’s right, that’s pretty neat. And also notice there’s no splitting, like these screws are like right up to the edge on here and nothing is split. If that was two screws on the edge of a 2×4, we would, we would have popped that uh that Pine right off and that would have had no holding power.

Yeah, we got a little carried away when we started looking at formulations and testing and seeing what we could do and you always have to push the envelope a little bit and try to get a little better. By the way, he’s got several patents, uh so this is this is not your average Builder. I have no patents to my name, that’s impressive my friend, that’s pretty cool.

And then the thicker stud is being used on this other panel size. So this panel size was 2 in and that is an R10, is that right?

Yeah, that out, that uh is actually, okay, so that would be equivalent to a 2×4 framing with R13 insulation in it, got or, but that’s continuous obviously so even better.

Yeah, that’s comparable to 2×4 with R11 insulation. So yeah, there you go.

And so now you’ve got an also a thicker version with uh a what did you say, this that is 3 and 1/4 inch, 3 and 1/4 inches? Yeah, and then this overall thickness is 3.75, so just shy four inches, three and 3/4 inches?

Yeah, we wanted to have the recess stud in there for energy purposes so the fasteners that fasten it will have be thermally disconnected.

Okay, so sorry, here a little awkward change but what he’s saying is that you cut out this phone for this display you sent me but what you’re seeing is that stud which by the way they have an Insofast logo and it says what does it say, “recess stud” at each one of those locations. It’s solid back there but it’s hidden by a half inch foam.

And so when you screw in, what are you doing with that screw head, in fact , would you show us how to throw a screw in there? By the way, sure, let’s move a couple things around, hang on one sec, let’s move my coffee so I don’t dump it. Okay, so we’re using a number 10 headed, just the standard, not like a not like a Timberlock screw. This is a number 10 by 4 and a half inch screw, a fairly inexpensive screw compared to the Timberlock style screws, right?

Right, and for applications, I mean, you’re going to be, you’re looking at about 18 cents or something instead of uh over a dollar for the structural. But I won’t screw it through and yeah, don’t screw it in my table but here, let’s actually screw it, let’s move it over so you can screw it cuz I want to see that screw head get recessed in.


There, check that out. So now if I did my math right, we should have one inch embedment into our, if we use the four and a half inch screw, uh no, 3/4 in bedman I guess, right? Because three and 3/4 and this four and a half screw, three and one quarter, three and one and four and a four and a half, oh that’s right, that’s right cuz it’s it’s one and a quarter. So there you go.

So that’s our embedment into our structure. And I suspect there’s a few people that would be worried about how much weight would that stud hold, you know, would that hold drywall, would that hold siding, what about if I put cabinets on the wall? And as a matter of fact, you guys made a video on that, didn’t you Ed?

We did, so we’re got a standard cabinet from The Big Box Store, mhm. Here we’re gluing the panel to the wall. Okay, and I should pause here, we haven’t mentioned it but by the way, in Insofast, all these panels that are made specifically for shipping containers, and this happens to be their shipping container panel, same exact panel, just a different corrugation on the back, right?

Yeah, it’s designed to fit the exactly into the corations of the containers. Got it. Okay, so this panel that’s on the top of the screen now that you’re seeing there, that’s just been screwed in in the two dovetailed uh kind of stud locations and glue is the only thing that’s holding it to the steel, right?

Yeah, so the panel was attached with just adhesive and then we’re attaching the cabinet through the cabinet hanging rails with just two cabinet hanging screws and you can kind of see it, so there’s one screw there, there’s one screw there and this is uh just a crappy uh Home Center cabinet, nothing special.

And then what’s he loading on there, those are concrete pavers, they look like there’s snow on them, is that what I’m seeing? It actually was done in the winter time, we pulled them out of the back of our shop, this is a Minnesota based company. And then what the heck is he putting there now, we ran out of block so we’re putting pieces of steel in, oh my gosh, is this crappy cabinet gonna hold that much weight?

That’s crazy, little more than the dishes you do in your cupboard typically, yeah, I would say so. He’s still loading the top up. We do a lot of testing. One of the things, those blocks actually had little pieces of studs glued onto them for our testing, in-house testing that we did. Holy cow, these guys are brave! There you go, the cabinet failed after it was loaded with how many pounds did it say? I missed that. The cabinet was, I think it was a little over 500, 580 pounds.

And on this image here that I paused on, the hang rail is still there. So in other words, yes, the studs with only two screw, one screw in each one of those studs, and just glue hanging that on the wall, was able to hold five, 580 pounds. That’s pretty impressive. Adhesive is amazing. When you look at the safety factor, it’s way more than the than the five times for a bridge, we’re in the 100 times. Holy cow!

But not only that, I think your, your studs that are embedded on there are pretty impressive because this adhesive was back here to the, in this case a a uh steel wall but a concrete wall, and then you just had a screw into this, not into the steel, and that was holding the cabinet on no problem until we get to almost 600 pound so that’s pretty impressive. This is a serious stud.

Yeah, it’s about the same strength as a 20 gauge commercial steel stud. That’s pretty impressive.

Now here’s what I like, uh, about this from a builder’s perspective, uh, as we think about using this for a basement wall, uh interior, or let’s say a basement floor interior. I think the part that really resonates for me, Ed, as a builder, is how we can eliminate several steps, uh, and those steps cost money and take time whereas your product, we’re going to unbox it, we’re going to install it and it’s really going to save us both time and money.

And speaking of money, uh, talk to us about cost a little bit, Ed, because I think it’s it’s something that uh our audience here online is going to be wondering about, like what does this cost, how do I get a hold of it, that sort of thing?

Yeah, actually all of our prices are right online so you can order it directly online and have it shipped to your project. That’s pry, so you’re not having to run back and forth or anything to to get it. So, go to the “Shop Now” section on there, and then you can scroll down to which application whether it’s a container interior, exterior uh and there’s all the pricing right on there.

So for instance, that uh 2in panel flat panel which could be used interior or exterior, uh, a box of those is $128 bucks. How much square footage in a box of that, rough?

40 square feet, 40 square feet. Okay, so you get 40 square feet for $128 bucks and there are volume discounts as you put in more, you’ll get a volume discount as well.

So and if I compare, let’s say the floor for instance, uh, in the past when I’ve done insulated floors on top of concrete I personally have done sheet foam, uh and then I’ve done two layers of plywood on top of that and then um my finish floor on top of that like a nailed down hardwood and especially here in the South where we’ve got a lot of slab on grade and a lot of remodel.

It’s a good system but I have gotten comments before that “Hey, that’s, an, that’s a pricey way to go” whereas your system, boy, that’s a way less costly, uh, way to go. I would typically say it is way less time, way less materials, way less labor.

Yep, and optimal results. There’s nothing in in the panels you’re not that are going to rot, rust or decay, so perfect, designed and engineered for the wet environment. That’s pretty cool.

And I also like that you’ve got uh the stud in there so you’ve got solid fastening. And you know you mentioned earlier that you could even use half inch OSB, let’s say if you were putting carpet down, uh or carpet tiles. If you were going to nail hardwoods or tile though, you’d probably step up to a 3/4 material, right?

Absolutely, yeah, I’d put a 3/4 Advantage down on there, screw it down. And you’d also make sure those panels were offset so you didn’t have a seam on that line up with a seam on your Insofast panel too, right?

Right, so that way the plywood locks all the panels in place because you’re fastening over across the seam. That makes sense.

Uh and I noticed there’s there’s a bunch of uh kind of random lines on here, what are those things used for?

Those are cutting lines on there. These are cutting lines right here so it it does two things, it marks your electrical raceway, mm, which runs horizontal or vertical in this case through the panels, and there’s also a horizontal one at the top of each of the panels, ah. Okay, but it also gets your 16 inch offset so you can put up your running bond instead of your stack bond so it interlocks the panels, got cha.

Together now, how would you actually cut that? Are you, do you have to use a hot knife on this? Just a long snap off blade utility knife is the quickest, there’s no mess. I have, have one here, would you give us a little demo? What do you want, you want to do on the flat or you want to do vertical?

I’ll do it, I’ll do it right here, okay, perfect right through the L, right there. So all you’re using here is just your standard utility uh, you know, long knife with a snap off blade, right? Nice sharp blade and usually one or two passes you can have it, the thicker ones you’re going to have to make a couple passes. How about that, it’s just pretty easy, sharp blade makes all the difference, doesn’t it?

Absolutely, that’s pretty awesome. And then also I noticed where your panels come together on the thicker board, I noticed that there was also some grooves in there that I suspect have a purpose as well. So let’s see if we can get the camera to see those. So Ed, where these two panels are coming together, what are all these vertical lines doing for us?

Well, those are capillary breaks to prevent crossover water, you know, if you’re putting up sheet foam vertically you have that long seam that you can get water sucking through and around, this breaks the capillary action so it drains. And this is actually all shingle style flashed.

Got it, so and so we haven’t really talked about it but this is ideal for an exterior insulation project, right, where you’ve got a built-in rain screen, uh you’ve got built-in studs and you’ve got less penetrations into your uh whatever your WRB happens to be in the building, right?

That’s right. And and Ed, actually we we queued up a couple images on that that you guys sent me ahead of time, let let me pull those up, uh, let’s start with this one here. So this Builder has uh a house wrap up and then you can see they’re laying those panels up the wall. How are they attaching those panels, just with uh standard construction screws?

Okay, so same screw we talked about earlier like a number 10, just a little shorter, yes, got it. And this happens to be the 2in panel rather than the, so it’s three and a 2 inch screws then typically, got cha. And then on in this case the stud is showing on the outside and again that’s the same panel that could be used below grade, they could be used on floors, it’s really kind of a universal panel, they are.

And then this panel which is a little thicker, what’s the R value on this guy?

That’s actually 15.9.

Okay, so in comparison to a it actually meets code for a basement for a 2×6 framed wall with R20 insulation, okay. It’s actually written in the code that’s pretty nice.

And then I think we have some images of that job here and what am I noticing on the base of that? It looks to me like there’s a metal flashing going on first before that installation happens.

Yeah, there is a flashing to cover up that foam to keep it from being exposed at the bottom. And you guys don’t sell those flashings but every builder that I know has either a roofer or a metal guy who bends those flashings but you brought a couple samples, uh, and that happens to be the base flashing right there, right?

Yeah, so this would be what you start out with on the bottom so I don’t know if you want to tip it up, yep, so then this would go onto the wall and that’s going to cover the bottom of the foam to make sure the pests aren’t getting in there, uh, that that foam’s not degrading over time, right, cover that with metal.

Right, and then as we move forward on the house, uh, I love this example, this house looks like a a fully Zip system sheath house, uh, and this is standard Zip system sheathing so that’s a 7/16 uh OSB with that zip green facer on the outside fully taped so now we’re both watertight and we’re airtight which I really like with this system. And then the Builder came on and did this uh R 15, what did you say it is, almost R16 panel and basically wrapped the house, uh, with that panel.

I’m also noticing that you’ve got a window here that’s what I would consider a recessed window or an any window, uh, talk to me about some flashings that you could use for that situation.

Yeah, we’ve got a number of different options that we’ve developed for the Insofast panels. This is a low profile option so when you’re, you put the panels up just leave a gap between the window and the brick mold and this just slides down into place, gives you a low profile. This you can attach your Hardy plank or your J channel or whatever you want to that for your sighting and uh real real simple low profile application.

Yeah that’s nice, there’s this profile application, same same kind of thing only it’s uh more traditional. This also works great for the sill extension soed a little bit but uh it eliminates you having to do all that dreaded extension jam work before you start and it’s something that the siders are accustomed to using this where they’re not accustomed to building, makes sense jams.

Now in this photo you’ve got the Insofast panel going to the edge of the wall and there’s no solid backing necessarily on that edge panel. How are you going to attach your corner boards on there? What would, what would be your thought on that?

Yeah, so you just butt the corners together and it’s nice to have a little little gap in there so you can put the spray foam in and seal it, air seal it. Anytime we come to an edge or a corner or the top of a window or around a window, we like to air seal, got it, put a little spray foam in there to seal, spray foam.

And uh, and then if you’re using a traditional corner board, how would you attach that traditional corner board? You’re going to put it together just like you would ordinarily and then you’re just going to use 6 inch long trim head screws to fasten through. That’s the most energy efficient way and the simplest way to uh do it and your siding will just butt up to there as as normal, we’re just starting doing regular construction details.

Yeah that makes sense. Uh I noticed on this photo it looked like some of those screws were kind of uh preloaded, is uh the guy on the left in the red sweatshirt pre-screwing and then handing off the panels, is that what’s going on there?

He is, that was actually a product project that was done for uh Urban Homeworks, are kind of like a Habitat for Humanity and and those kids are uh, most of them quite frankly haven’t even run a screw gun before so we had to teach them how to run the screw gun but how about that? They’re building a a passive house there and the only thing they have to do is just put the Insofast panels on there to get it to passive standards for their house or you go Net Zero, depends on where, it’s where it’s built but it’s one simple step.

Yeah, now that you say that, I think that really is a big selling point of your system, uh, one simple step that could be a a new a new catchphrase for your website but that really appeals to me. I saw another video that you guys made where you talked about you know traditional exterior installation, you’ve got uh fasteners, you’ve got rain screens to deal with, you’ve got uh WRBs.

On the other hand, this system, the Zip system in this particular case is doing the water and the air management and then your foam is continuous, it’s one trip, it’s one step and then you’re ready to start attaching your siding. You’ve got it grooved on the backside so if any incidental moisture got back there it’s going to be able to drain out, uh it’s got some drainage plane on the front side and you could attach your, let’s say your Hardy siding or whatever, right to that with your standard pneumatic nail gun, right?

You can and I mean the neat thing about it is it’s, it eliminates seven different steps that are conventionally done and in comparison to uh even the other types of exterior insulation that are done where where you do rock wool, you don’t have to worry about that compressive, yeah, at all which and you don’t have the structural screws in there at all so you’re going to save,

I mean about a dollar a square foot is what you’re going to save, expensive screws compared to a structural screw. And uh, so it eally, when you look at it, there is – it’s a tremendous, tremendous value and savings there.

Yeah, I could definitely see that. Another thing that I think is interesting here is a phrase that I’ve been talking about a lot, and I did a podcast on, was remodel ability, you know, what’s going to happen to a house that I build in 50 years? So, for instance, this house under construction, when that siding in a couple of decades reaches the end of its life, what are we going to do when we rip that off?

And what I’m thinking about this particular install is, once these guys screw these Insofast panels on with just a few of these number 10 long, number 10 head long screws, now that panel is going to protect my, uh, air and water barrier, my Zip system sheathing. It’s also not going to get very hot or cold because it’s got that huge amount of R-value in front of it.

And I’m not nailing into, uh, when I nail my siding on, I’m not penetrating the Zip at all because I’ve got that spacer. I’ve got that, in this case, 3 and 1/2 inch stud, and I’m nailing into the stud, and that nail or screw is not penetrating my, uh, my Zip system.

So when I pull that siding off someday in 50 years, uh, I’m going to have some nails in here, but who cares because that’s shy of the Zip system sheathing, which should be back here. In this case, see, none of those screws are penetrating it. So I’ve got a much more pristine air and water barrier 50 years from now that I wouldn’t have to rebuild, would be my thought, right? Because you spend a lot of time rolling and sealing and everything to have that all disappear with removing the siding is really, really tough.

What we like to think about it as is a 3 and 3/4 inch thick weather resistant barrier that you don’t puncture, and that’s really – it actually is the belt and suspenders approach. It actually is rated as a weather resistant barrier, uh, but we still use a another weather resistant barrier below it.

Yeah, that’s pretty cool. Ed, what do you what do you say to people when they say, uh, why would you do this when you can just add solar to your house, uh, and save the money on that exterior insulation?

Well, this is there for the life of the home, so it’s as long as it’s standing, it’s giving you a return. It’s comfort more than anything, yeah, but it doesn’t become obsolete after 20 years or 30. It’s not needing to ever be replaced, and that’s really the first step to, uh, do this before you do the solar or the other. I would totally agree.

And it’s really hard to retrofit this later, where it’s pretty easy to retrofit solar later. So get solar ready, but make your house as insulated as possible, uh, because it’s ultimately, for me as a builder, I never sell, uh, these products, these systems, this additional expense to homeowners on, “Oh, look at this amazing energy savings. You’ll pay back this in x amount of years on your electric bill.” I tell people, “Look, you’re going to pay it back on day one when you move in, and it’s a more comfortable house.

Think about a, uh, a bedroom that’s a cold bedroom or that’s a hot bedroom, that is an uncomfortable spot.” On day one, whereas if we can insulate that really well and air seal that really well, you’re going to have a really comfortable space, and that is going to pay for itself every single day by you wanting to spend time there. And that’s really a good point with the bedroom, or one room for the above grade applications for the wood framed applications. And uh, where it, it’s like adding another vent in the room for heating or cooling, yeah, it’s that much difference.

And in fact, you showed me some images like this one where people have done that, just that they’ve retrofitted on the inside some Insofast panels. As long as you’re above grade, uh, you know, and make sure that obviously your windows aren’t leaking, you’re not getting bulk water in there, that’d be a great way to upgrade the comfort of a room like this photo right here.

It is, and one of the neat things that our customers say is, it’s they know exactly where their budget is because they’re not tearing off the drywall, they’re not find doing everything else. It’s always tough time to find out, figure out where to stop, yeah, on a project. So that’s a really great point. This is, uh, this is just a gives you a starting and ending point.

Ed, before we close out the video, I do want to mention, we didn’t, we mention it briefly earlier, but you guys have a full line of insulation that’s specifically made for containers, uh, for both insulating interior, which would be perfect for, uh, the hot humid south, or exterior, which is even better if you’re in the north. You might actually need both if you’re going to turn that into a living space.

But I, I actually visited a a ranch not too far from here the office that had it. That’s how I got introduced to you guys, uh, made a a quick Instagram reel about it cuz I was so blown away. It got a million plus views, and I think that’s how we got connected.

And I loved hearing your story about building all those years, being an ICF contractor, and then coming up with this idea, patenting so many of the parts and pieces of this, uh, and now having solutions for so many places in the house. It really makes a lot of sense to me as a builder.

Thanks for coming on. Anything that we miss that you want to mention?

It awesome opportunity to just be here and be able to talk building with like mind, and look forward to showing more products.

That’s awesome, Dad. I appreciate it. Last question for you. I know you’ve got a ton of info both on your website and your YouTube channel. Do you have some tech people available if people have questions or have a specific application they want to ask about?

We do. We actually have real people that answer the phone and a phone number listed on our website.

How about that? That’s awesome. So if you need these guys, shoot them an email, shoot them a phone call. You’ll actually get real people will answer you.

Impressive stuff is thanks for sponsoring today’s video. Thanks much, a lot of fun, guys. And in today’s video, Ed and his company, everyone I’ve dealt with, really, really cool people with some impressive solutions that I’ve not seen from any other company in the marketplace. That being said, guys, if you’re not currently a subscriber, hit that subscribe button below.

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